Stunning bridalwear at ...
L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion ...
Wilted ...
Dear Prudence ...
Stark ...
Flower power: fancying ...
Photography: Lara Milenko (www.laramilenko.com)
Styling: Tan Arlidge
Wardrobe: Stylist’s own
Shoes: Zu
Hair: Lauren McCowan (for Cloudnine)
Makeup + Manicure: Oli Antunes (makeup notes, below)
Model: Tiggy (at Vivien’s Models)
Makeup Notes
Eyes: Mac eye shadow / Pro pallete in Retrospeck and Orange
Prep and Prime Lash, Kryolan and Mac Blend and Fix
Complexion: Mac Face and Body in C1 & White and Cream Colour Base in Luna, Tom Ford Cream Contour
Lips: Makeup Store – Lip Gloss Bar
Nails: OPI ‘Moon Over Mumbai’
There was a unified intake of breath as the first ivory silk, floor length, matrimonial gown entered the runway. A mass of adoration for a garment that can turn even the most cynical of fashionable critics into a pool of warm buttermilk. The ‘wedding dress’ has been known throughout its long and varied tenure to be the only fashion statement received by both polar ends of the spectrum – inciting grotesque fear or heart-warming romance. Thankfully, the Harper’s Bazaar show at L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival provoked the latter.
Colette Dinnigan’s brides (above) were adorned with shimmering nets floating across their faces with bare shoulders a key focal point. Strapless gowns with bead embroidered bodices accompanied plunging silk georgette and tulle to create an ultra-sophisticated silhouette.
Akira exhibited Australiana flora brides (above), complete with overgrown bouquets of ferns and eucalyptus. The splash of green was an incredible contrast against the white of the dresses, which featured dainty cobweb-like headpieces and subtle fabric embellished flowers throughout. Intricate and layered, Akira’s designs were soft and natural.
Gwendolynne Burkin’s innate and flawless ability to create wedding gowns that are not only a fantasy come true, but a testament to her craft was on marvellous display with her latest collection of romantic garments. With exquisite hand beading and fabrics of silk and satin, Gwendolynne’s brides (above) were straight out of a fairytale tome. Plunging yet demure necklines, beads strung across bare shoulders, intricate detailing on each and every piece – it was an extraordinary collection; one tantamount to a finely crafted dream. With radiant chapel veils catching the light and floating behind the models, partner-in-millinery-crime, Richard Nylon, outdid himself with a towering headpiece straight out of the renaissance period. A true head turner, this extravagant concoction was thrilling and pleasantly out of the ordinary.
Rachel Gilbert (above) also presented bare-shouldered brides, with adorable flowered pom-pom headbands and heavily beaded boned bodices; some with the gorgeous detail trickling down onto the full bodied silk skirts for a unique and elegant touch.
There were sheer beaded bandanas from Aurelio Costarella (above), whose models fluttered down the runway with ostrich feathers trimming their shoulders or collages of deconstructed material in the shape of flowers. A King Triton worthy headpiece was also on display, accompanied by flowing silks gathered at the side for a regal touch.
And finally, the master of allure, Toni Maticevski (above) showcased a phenomenal collection of gowns that were both minimal and embellished; deconstructed and finite. With elaborate heart shaped décolletage and layers of fabric and tulle juxtaposed against dramatic yet simple full bodied skirts of scratched silk – fit for a princess. The piece de resistance was the finale gown. The model bride was flanked by two handsome gentlemen in black tie tuxedos, as she walked down the aisle with layers of exquisite ivory tulle and a lengthy train and cathedral veil following her. It was dramatic, it was romantic, it was breath taking, and it was amazing – capping off what was undoubtedly the best show of the week.
Runway photography by Lucas Dawson.
My stance when it comes to critiquing this year’s L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival is all about quality, not quantity. Without the monotony of listing each and every consumer label, this year I focused my prowess and energy on the standout designers from the shows I attended. The unique ones that presented a fashion palette that was neither mediocre nor tedious; the ones who woke me up from my runway lull and slapped my senses awake at full force.
The most prolific designer to distinguish the catwalk was the remarkable Mary Katrantzou; the Greek born, London based sensation. Coming from a background seeped in international design prestige – from opening the Saint Martin’s College of Art & Design’s graduate show and consequentially having her prêt-à-porter collection shown at the A/W London Fashion Week in the same year; to having fashion royalty from Anna Della Russo and Sarah Jessica Parker to Miranda Kerr and Jessica Alba don her unique and cleverly crafted dresses. Katrantzou is stocked in over 200 global high-end fashion stores and online sites like Net-a-Porter and will now be stocked at David Jones in Australia. Katrantzou’s intricately pieced together garments, complete with illustrious prints, beading, embellishments, fringing, layers, structured shoulders and long paneled skirts juxtapose in wonderful harmony.
Katrantzou’s latest assortment included stamp collection prints with coloured beads and iridescent pearls; featuring patterns of old world stamps from around the globe. There were also more unimaginable items like typewriters, pencils and trees that were featured throughout. Colourful, spontaneous, unique and flattering, these garments scream theatre, regality, vivaciousness and creativity.
In terms of the Australian designers that showcased, there were of course some stars that shone in an indigo sky. Alice McCall’s fun and sexy collection (example above) included bright neon mini-dresses featuring leopard and peacock motifs, chic turbans and an adorable silk and lace overlay, high-waisted pant and cropped peasant top combination.
Bianca Spender (above) was a highlight for me, as I am currently obsessed with her wildfire red silk and backless gown. It is remarkably elegant, and the pant-suit combination in the same colour is to die for.
Camilla (above) set about exhibiting an Aztec vibe, with clashing chiffon animal prints of wild cats and tropical birds, thigh-high tanned leather boots, large nose rings and facial jewelry that brought together a very eclectic and spirited collection.
Carla Zampatti’s elegant and sophisticated collection (above) included black and white combinations of sequined pant-suits, a glamorous black velvet, one-armed full length dress with sequined detailing, and a striking silver and white flowing gown. Zampatti’s assemblage was smart, sexy and impactful.
Mariana Hardwick’s latest inception aptly named, Hardwick (above) exhibited risqué sheer black lace dresses that were highly sexy, even if impractical for the wintery months. But then again, leather and lace were made for one another and Hardwick married the two effortlessly.
Jayson Brundson (above) created another one of my favourite outfits of the week – a pale cobalt silk chiffon jumpsuit, with heart-shaped lace bodice complete with scalloped décolletage. Absolutely gorgeous, and in my opinion the best piece in his collection.
Ksubi (above) rocked it out with black and gold rock star glamour of sleeveless gold embroidered shirts and ass-cheek-high short shorts, biker gloves and boyfriend leather pants together with ‘The Good Versus God’ slogan t-shirts that screamed of chic rebellion, as well as low-waisted light denim shorts and tight leather leotard.
Rachel Gilbert’s flawlessly lux collection (above) of heavily beaded and sequined gowns was a knock-out. With colours of blush, emerald and granite her gowns are wonderfully feminine, graceful and not to mention sought highly after.
Willow’s unique high sheen russet-coloured material and black leather carved and cut-out dresses (above) were powerful in their structural brilliance and femininity. Equally so in sheer chiffon or as a skirt and jacket combination with subtle peplum detailing.
Yeojin Bae’s JB J’Aime collection struck a prevailing chord, with intensely sharp blood-red pant-suits and trench coats. Harking back to the power dressing of the ’80s but with a modern outlook, complete with Akubra hats, there were also sheer lace pants (which the designer herself wore to perfection) married to tailored jackets or flowing floral print pant and top combos. It was refreshing, dashing and assertive.
Not only were the above designers worthy of note, the Rekordelig Bar was also a welcomed site at LMFF this year. With refreshingly tasty cocktails, it was the perfect place to gather before the night’s shows, and an embraced distraction from the excessive champagne consumption always seen at fashion week.
Runway photography by Lucas Dawson.
Photography Jason Schembri
Styling Mitchell Steed
Hair + Makeup Amelia Axton (at Reload Agency)
Model Tara Cassidy (at Debut Management)
Fashion caption (image above:) George Gross gown.
↑ George Gross gown.
↑ George Gross gown.
↑ Aurelio Costarella gown and belt.
↑ Aurelio Costarella gown and belt.
↑ Toni Maticevski dress. Toni Maticevski maxi skirt layered underneath. Headpiece, stylist’s own.
↑ Aurelio Costarella gown. Headpiece, stylist’s own.
↑ Tulle dress and headpiece, stylist’s own.
For stockists in your area, please Google desired label.
Photography Tanja Bruckner
Styling Mikey Ayoubi
Makeup Di Dusting (at DLM)
Hair David Cranson
Model Driele (at Chic)
Fashion caption for image above: Flannel Dress. Matina Amanita earrings. Coconut bikini top, stylist’s own.
↑ Gasparre knit. Kate Sylvester dress.
↑ Gasparre knit. Kate Sylvester dress.
↑ Gail Sorronda skirt and blouse. Christian Louboutin boots.
↑ Gail Sorronda skirt and blouse. Christian Louboutin boots.
↑ DVF top. Christopher Esber pants. Gorman wedges.
↑ Alice McCall dress. Nicholas Kirkwood boots.
↑ Alice McCall dress.
For stockists, please Google desired designer.
Photography Claire Wallman
Styling Lisa Breeds
Makeup Casey Gore
Hair Peter Tadrosse
Model Cooper Thompson (at Chic)
↑ Provocator Jacket and Vintage Jeans.
↑ Perspective Vest and Vintage Jeans.
↑ Provocator Jeans.
↑ Perspective Denim Vest and Provocator Jeans.
↑ Krew Jacket and Provocator Jeans.
↑ Krew Jacket.
Photography Lara Milenko (www.laramilenko.com)
Styling Mitchell Steed (www.mitchellsteed.com)
Makeup + hair Amelia Axton (at Reload Agency)
Model Declan (at Chic Management)
↑ Fashion captions for image above: Shirt, Vanishing Elephant. Pants, Vanishing Elephant. Cardigan, stylist’s own Vintage bowtie, Grandma Takes A Trip.
↑ Shirt, Vanishing Elephant. Pants, Dr Denim. Belt, Gap. Vintage bowtie, Grandma Takes A Trip. Pochette made by stylist.
↑ Shirt, Asos. Shorts, Vanishing Elephant.
↑ Shirt, Dr Denim. Vintage hat and tie, stylist’s own.
↑ Shirt, Folke. Shorts, Vanishing Elephant. Sunglasses, Asos.
↑ Shirt and shorts, Folke.
For stockists please Google desired label.
Sure, you know full well that colour blocking is all over the shop shelves. But to really stand out of the crowd, try mixing it up a little. Well, alright then, a lot…
Photography Claire Wallman
Styling Kirsten Butler
Hair Daisy Moroney
Makeup Victoria Anderson
Model Emily Theyers (at Priscillas Model Management)
Special thanks to Emilio Cereobi at Gasparre Tiles for the location
(Fashion caption for image above:) Pink floral dress by Phoenix Keating. Shirt (collar shown) by Watson X Watson. Yellow snake shirt (sleeves shown) by Coco Ribbon London. Green belt by Peter Lang. Yellow ribbon (under belt) by Purple Ginger. Handbag from Grandma Takes A Trip. Shoes from ShuBar.
(Above) Printed jacket by Howard Showers. Red printed shirt by Equipment Femme. Pants by Howard Showers. Necklace by Peter Lang. Headpiece by Philomena Kwok.
(Above) Mix print dress by Eden Cleaver. Jacket by Phoenix Keating. Necklace by Peter Lang. Headpiece by Philomena Kwok.
(Above) Rainbow mini dress by Suboo. Blue print dress (worn over the top) by Talyah Falabella. Belt by Charlie Brown. Bag from Grandma Takes A Trip. Ring by Yves Saint Laurent. T-shirt worn as turban by Boohoo. Rainbow tights, stylist’s own. Shoes from ShuBar.
(Above) Yellow and green print jacket by Trelise Cooper. Bra by Pleasure State Couture. Shorts by Watson X Watson. Necklace by Anthropologie. Socks and shoes, stylist’s own. Bag from Grandma Takes A Trip. T-shirt worn as turban by Boohoo.
(Above) Yellow snake print shirt by Coco Ribbon London. Shirt (worn underneath) by Watson X Watson. Blue printed skirt by This is Genevieve. Swarovski brooch by George Giavis. Sneakers by Jack Purcell for Converse. Printed cushions from The Mix.
DIRECTORY
Anthropologie: www.anthropologie.com
Boohoo: www.boohoo.com
Charlie Brown: www.charliebrown.com.au
Coco Ribbon London: www.cocoribbon.com
Eden Cleaver: 0411 891 914
Equipment Femme: www.revolveclothing.com
George Giavis: www.georgegiavis.com
Grandma Takes A Trip: www.grandmatakesatrip.com
Howard Showers: www.discoverygroup.com.au
Jack Purcell for Converse: www.converse.com.au
Lisa Ho: www.lisaho.com
Peter Lang: www.peterlang.com.au
Philomena Kwok: www.philomenakwok.com
Phoenix Keating: www.phoenixkeating.com
Pleasure State Couture: www.pleasurestate.com
Purple Ginger: www.purpleginger.com.au
ShuBar: www.shubarshoes.com
Suboo: www.suboo.com.au
Talyah Falabella: 0410 612 248
The Mix: 02 9327 7194
This is Genevieve: www.thisisgenevieve.com
Trelise Cooper: www.trelisecooper.com
Watson X Watson: www.watsonxwatson.com.au
Yves Saint Laurent: www.net-a-porter.com
“Girls who [are] boys / who like boys to be girls / who do boys like they’re girls / who do girls like they’re boys…”
Photography Jason Schembri (www.jasonschembri.com)
Styling Mitchell Steed (www.mitchellsteed.com)
Hair + makeup Byron Turnbull (at Reload Agency www.byronturnbull.com)
Models Cooper (at Chic), Bannie (at Priscillas), Ella (at Priscillas), Andrew P (at EMG), Roelene (at Chadwicks), Charlie (at Chadwicks), Angelique (at EMG), Elika (at EMG), Augusten (at The Agency) + Nelson (at EMG)
Fashion (above) Top by Asos, $80, and shirt by Country Road Shirt, $149.
(Above) Blazer by Zara Blazer, $129.90, and shirt by Country Road Shirt, $149.
(Above) Tee by American Apparel, $34.
(Above) Shirt by Cue, $95.
(Above) Knit by Zara, $49.90.
(Above) Shirt by Saveus, $149.95.
(Above) Top by Bassike, $110.
(Above) Shirt by Zara, $59.90.
(Above) Jumper by Mink, $89.
(Above) Tee by American Apparel, $34, and top by Song For The Mute, $165.
(Above) Shirt by Cue, $95, and knit by Zara, $49.90.
(Above) Knit by Zara, $69.90.
(Above) Shirt by Saveus, $149.95, and top by Bassike, $110.
For store addresses and stockists, Google desired label.
Continued coverage of Melbourne Spring Fashion Festival by Cream’s trusty fashionista, the lovely Lara Antonelli…
Photography by Lucas Dawson.
The second runway show from Melbourne Spring Fashion Week opened with Arthur Galan (above) setting the tone for the futuristic twist on a spring palette. With ultramodern eye-visors by Alexandra Blak, the Arthur Galan collection was sleek, sexy, chic and polished. Graphic print or blue and black block-coloured suits, plus sunflower yellow tasselled tops with high waisted pants dominated the mood for Galan’s sophisticated spring assemblage.
Label Above (indeed, pictured above) had models adorned in sheer apron-like overlays that gave way to literal ‘spring on the catwalk’ looks – vials of flowers as brooches… An interesting adaptation of botany meets fashion, but is it one that will be embraced by the general public?
Carly Hunter (above) displayed some fantastic cuts, including one burnt orange dress, with a split sliced to perfection, displaying a chic earthiness that followed throughout the rest of the collection. Rorschach-esque inkblot print, black and white sheer tops, jeans and dresses were a welcome addition to the collection – simple yet impactful.
Alice Euphemia (above) was sensational, opening with black leather shorts and a crisp white shirt. Soft, delicate yet highly cognisant prints (almost like a mix between what is seen within a biologist’s microscope and thumb prints) were displayed in dresses and cute high waisted bathers and crop tops. With some fantastic floral water colour prints, Alice Euphemia also managed to wow the audience with a remarkable emerald green sequined mini dress, which looks to be the ultimate party dress for the season.
Perennial fashion favourite, Life With Bird (above), delivered yet again with an amazing and intricately patterned crop top and shorts, using the same gorgeous pattern throughout, coupled with oversized cuffs, incisive high-necked, sleeveless shirts. Shift dresses with cleverly cut overlays gave the outfits a Life With Bird signature stamp – a stunning vision of design; intricate, bold, clever and ravishing with the inclusion of lilac, interworked pastels and charcoal.
Jayson Brundson (above) entered with a powerful deep scarlet jacket and skirt combo and an astonishing nude sequined knee-length dress, a definite for my Christmas list. The lady like glamour continued with a very sexy yet poised leopard print dress with lace décolletage detailing. The silver headbands gave a nod towards the future, whilst still harking back to the past and the fusion of both times, with a marvellous metallic lace, peplum halter-neck gown . A fabulous and soon to be coveted collection from Brundson.
Yeojin Bea’s YB J’aime (above) encapsulated all the key trends for summer, but with a refined, feminine bend. Lilacs, mint, pink, nude, floral graphic prints – she amalgamated these crucial elements with pant suits, shorts, buttoned up shirts, shoulder cut capes, elegant slip dresses and figure hugging mesh and textured full length gowns. Fun, flirty and youthful with a refreshing colour swatch perfect for sunshine.
Manning Cartell (above) managed to make a crop top, bolero and high waisted embellished pencil skirt, in hot and soft pastel pink, work a treat – it was incredible and glamorous. The kind of achingly wonderful outfit you just want to get your hands on. Very 1960s Miami, sipping a champagne cocktail by the pool. Flowers and nudes dominated once again, with an ever so slight tulip-shaped, modestly cut dress bounded down the runway, quick to become a Spring Carnival favourite. Mixing electric purple glitter with peach pastel pants and grey scale floral prints with black and white geometric shapes, the Manning Cartell collection was spot on.
To finish, Thurley provided some wow-worthy, eye-popping colour combinations. Gold and pastel pink Egyptian like printed dresses and neon floral short suits, juxtaposed with a brilliant white tuxedo jacket, complete with tails. Thurley concluded with more white – detailed white gowns complete with feathers, sequins, beading, mesh, and a show stopping full length lace concoction closed out the show with confidence.
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